hedghogs, hedgehogs everywhere

How about a free hedgehog pattern?  I've written it out at http://crochetstitchwitch.com/?p=337 but even better than that...I've made videos - two of them in fact.  Huzzah.  It was very time consuming and editing is really, really dull so future videos will definately be shorter but here ya go..

and part two

Let me know how you get on with them!! xx

Foxy Foxy! (or Wolf!)

New pattern!!

I've put it on ETSY this time as an experiment as well as dear RAVELRY. I must admit to getting a bit confused with how each site calculates the bloody sales tax but that's an argument for another day/week/year....

The ears are worked seperately then it's all in one piece so you'll need to be able to increase and decrease in single crochet and make the odd chain here and there.  I've included lots of step by step pictures for any tricky bits....It also looks super cute if you teasel brush all the pointy bits....I'll try to get a photo up!

More details here

crochet sheep free pattern!!

Still in the spirit of the sheep, I couldn't resist making a little bobble version. I love bobbles. They are easy but gobble up the yarn so you'll need more than you think. I probably used about half a ball (25g ish) of the bobble colour, this was Drops Nepal in off white I think they call it. It's aran/worsted weight and I used a 3.5mm hook. (Btw, I always use American crochet terminology since I taught myself to crochet using Youtube videos)

To make a crochet bobble (bob): yo, insert hook in next sc, yo, pull through sc, yo pull through 2 on hook, *yo, insert hook in same sc, yo, pull through sc, yo, pull through 2 on hook*  repeat from * to* until 6 loops on hook then yo and pull through all 6.

The bobbles are a lot easier to execute if you just accept that they are on the wrong side, this is just fine, turn it inside out when you've done.  A slight complication arises if you switch to normal sc crochet (as with this crochet sheep) because you don't want to continue working the sc with the wrong side out (or maybe you do - go for it!) It honestly doesn't show that much if, when you join the different colour yarn, you also make your rounds go the other way and any little hiccup that does show, is easily hidden under the ear!

Pattern: Printable Version

	Body & Head
Row	Instruction	count
1	Make 6sc in adjustable loop	6
2	(sc, bob) 3 times might want to skip this row to avoid a 'pointy bottom (tho I quite like the torpedo shape!)	6
3	inc 6 times	12
4	(sc, bob) 6 times	12
5	(sc, inc) 6 times	18
6	(sc, bob) 9 times	18
7	(2sc, inc) 6 times	24
8	(sc, bob) 12 times	24
9	24sc	24
10-11	repeat row 8 & 9	24
12	Switch to face colour, 24sc (going the other way so bobbles are now on the right/out side)	24
13	24sc	24
14	(2sc, dec) 6 times. Stuff firmly. (Stick safety eyes in if using.)	18
15	(sc, dec) 6 times	12
16	dec 6 times	6
	cut yarn, pull last loop out (not through the loop) thread end through outer loop of remaining 6sc and pull up to close.
	Legs (make 4)
1	Make 6sc in adjustable loop	6
2	inc 6 times	12
3	12sc	12
4	(dec, 2sc) 3 times	9
5	9sc	9
6	(dec, sc) 3 times	6
	cut yarn about 9", pull last loop out and use end to sew to underside of body, between bobbles
	Ears
1	Make 6sc in adjustable loop	6
2	inc 6 times	12
3	(inc, sc) 6 times	18
	Pinch one edge of the circle and sew to the edge of the face, about a third of the way down.
	Embroider some eyes and a nose.

Joining crochet pieces together

This is a little photo tutorial that I've started including with my patterns.  I daresay this is not the only or the best way to attach your arms and legs and wotnot but it is the way that I've found the most satisfying.

It can really make or break your creations if the bits don't stick together right, some of my early efforts prove that! So I spent quite some time working out how to piece them together better and find I spend almost as much time getting this last bit right as in actually crocheting the pieces in the first place.  I will also add that I nearly always have to have a few goes before I get it right, for that reason, I'll always leave the end where I can find it for a while in case I have to unpick it all and re-attach then poke all the ends into the body when I'm satisfied.

Hope this helps someone :)

I'm a bit sheepish about my latest project...

Ok, so Brian the Sheep may owe a little in looks to Shaun the Sheep...some things are just so deeply embedded in the psyche there's no getting away from it.  I obviously watch too much (childrens!) TV.  

Brian has already made his debut on Instagram (my new favourite place) and I'm finishing up putting the pattern together for retail soon.  I've used a gorgeous hairy yarn from Drops which I got when they were doing an Alpaca event.  It's worth watching their website as every now and then they do a promotion with 25% or so off various yarns - good time to stock up...(I'm still wondering what to do with the stripey sock yarn I got last time)

I'm a bit new to textured yarn and discovered that you have to work it inside out since all the texturey bits end up on the wrong side. I'm going to have another go at it using a loop stitch instead of a textured yarn, I think that normally works wrong side out too.  I'll post the results here or Work In Progress on instagram. :)

I actually intended to make him an all white sheep, maybe black ears but discovered I'd actually run out of white yarn.  I've still forgotten (too poor to buy it anyway!) to get any more so, the next prototype may be a teensy bit multi-coloured.  Depends what I can find in my stash..stripey sock yarn here I come..

Wilhelmina Bunny Rabbit is here...

and I just realised I never included any write up for her daisy chain head band...bum!  I'll write it up and post it here when I get a chance.

I used drops Nepal yarn which is some sort of Alpaca/wool mix.  Holds it's shape well and is quite frankly a joy to work with.  Also I bought it when Drops was doing a deal on anything alpaca so it was a great price. I'm now a convert to their yarns.   Wilhelmina used up about 2 balls in the off white colour and half a ball in the medium pink.

She's available as usual from my Ravelry store (minus the daisy chain headband which I'll put here...when I can find my notes...)

Thought I'd post these photos from the pattern here too that give you some idea of the difference in character when you change the features...or more specifically the eyes...

Buttons, 6mm black and 15mm brown eyes

I was going to go with the buttons but then found some 12mm round black ones in my box which looked so sweet.  Those big brown eyes look really quite scary....actually I have some amber ones somewhere, should have tried those, would have given zombie monkey a fright.

I actually changed the nose later as well from the basic 'Miffy' number.

I will also confess that I almost never get the arms/ears/legs in the right place the first time.  I'm always having to undo them and try again.  So I have learnt to never actually finish all my ends in too tightly until I'm total happy with the arrangement...many creations have ended up with holes in their bodies where I've cut the wrong thread trying to release an errant limb.

Spring preview part 2...

Just finishing up writing the pattern out and doing all the photos.  The ideas and the making is the easy part!

Spring preview..

More Jutey Juteness

Ah, that heading just made me recall when I was in the supermarket with my daughter and made a similar comment about the vast selection of peas that were available...how we laughed...think about it...

Anyways, I'm still trying to come up with the definitive crochet hamster housey (amongst other projects) and here is the latest effort:

I was going for a roundhouse sort of vibe, tho now that I look at it, it looks more like a chiminea.  Roast hamster anyone?  Anyway, I can't see if Vader (the hamster) likes it yet since the daughter has made him a nice fleece bed which I'm not allowed to take out.  He'll have shredded it totally in a few days so I'll wait till then.  It used up just slightly over one 75g ball of jute twine so I might have to make a few adjustments so that I can get it out of one ball since that's really annoying.  Next question...Spring bunny, lamb or piggy?  Or all three...now there's a thought....

A jute extravaganza...

Last week, I got talked into getting my daughter a hamster.  She's obviously lost interest already but I wouldn't have given in and got it if I didn't quite like the idea of a furry little friend.

Anyway, obviously my first thoughts were....Yay! I'll crochet him a lovely bed.  First attempt was a rather exotic cotton affair that I suspended from the top of the cage...he never even chewed it. Bah.

Then I recalled some jute string that was lurking in the shed and knocked out a little HDC number while my hair dye was doing it's thing.  In my enthusiasm for my new project I forgot to set a timer.  It appears that I can safely leave dye on my hair for 40 mins or so with no ill effects....maybe even better grey coverage perhaps...and the bed is complete. 

He doesn't seem overly impressed.  In fact, he's relocated his nest behind it. Poo.  In hindsight, I think it needs to be bigger, I'd probably better not be dyeing my hair for the next attempt, I may end up bald.

I also made another heart in the string.  I'm sure I should come up with some clever pun here...something about heart strings.  Regardless, I see much jute in my future...

A cute little heart pattern

I guess it's that time of year to be getting a little romantic so I thought I'd add my own little heart pattern to the crochet community.

This one has the optional 4th Row done in the same colour

This one has the optional 4th Row done in a different colour

And this one is the smaller heart hung over the larger heart

And here's the pattern.  I've even done a printable version here ( I hope.... I followed some instructions from here which seemed simple enough...)

Larger Crochet Heart Shape

Note	Instructions in () to be done in the same stitch
Row 1	8sc in adjustable loop and sl.st to first
Row 2	In sc after sl.st (sc, hdc), (dc, dc), (sc, hdc), dc, (hdc, sc), (dc, dc), (hdc, sc) sl.st
Row 3	(hdc, dc), (dc, dc) (hdc, sc) (sc, sc), sc, sc, (sc, tr, sc don’t worry that tr gets pushed to the back – that’s the pointy bit), sc, sc, (sc, sc) (sc, hdc), (dc, dc), (dc, hdc), sl.st. finish here with long end to make into a loop if required or:
Row 4 (Optional)	Sl.st round front post of each stitch except the tr chain at the bottom and finish with sl.st in row below at top centre of heart.  This looks nice when done in a different colour. Or you could just thread up a needle and chain stitch round the posts.  Leave a long end to pull through to the back and make into a loop if required. J

Little Crochet Heart Shape

Row 1	8sc in adjustable loop and sl.st to first
Row 2	In sc after sl.st (sc, hdc, dc), (dc,dc), (sc, sc), (sc, tr, sc), (sc, sc), (dc, dc), (dc, hdc, sc), sl.st.  Pull long end through to make a loop or just finish off neatly J

Happy Valentines day

New Year, New er...cat thing monster?

Thought I'd try something different for the new year and that is...make shapes with out breaking wind yarn and after much faffing about (it's harder than it looks you know!)  I finally made a cat type thing. Or it could be a creepy monster type thing?

The size will vary greatly depending on the hook and yarn used.  The smallest one I made is just 12cm tall using 3ply yarn and 2mm hook.  The biggest is a pillow wannabe 28cm using chunky yarn and 5mm hook.

Instead of the usual top to bottom or bottom to top approach, this is worked from left side to right side and gives a different look to the ususal Amigurumi type thing.  Think I will be exploring the possibilities further :)

Slinky Glove pattern

For a child(adult) glove, I used sirdar snuggly dk and size 4mm hook.  This pattern is not fully tested and probably quite wrong in some places but it works up quick so not a major disaster when it does go wrong!

Here is the video explaining the rib:

Initially I did the side joins just with a sl.st/ch2 which is quick and easy but with the yarn I was using looked a bit tatty...it may look ok with a fluffier yarn.  After much faffing about, I decided the best join I could do was as follows (of course you could always just work it flat and sew up the side when you've done):

And so putting this new found knowledge to good use here's what I did to make small size glove with (large size in brackets):

ch 30(34)
hdc in 3rd from hook, 27(31)sc, join with a sl.st to the top of the ch3, join (as above as are all joins from now)
27(31) hdc in lowest loop of previous row (as rib video) join and repeat this row.
You'll be able to see after a few rounds if this is likely to be a good fit (does it go over the intended hand?) if adjustments need to be made, you can alter the number of the initial chain.  If your going with the bobble trim, you'll need a starter chain that is a multiple of 4, plus 2

repeat this row for as long as you want the cuff (ending with a right side row).

Increase by 4 stitches to accomodate the palm so:
for the smaller size: 2hdc (6hdc, pick up the next in-between loop and create a new hdc) 4 times, 1hdc
for the larger size: 2hdc (7hdc, pick up the next in-between loop and create a new hdc) 4 times, 1hdc

Then do 4 more hdc rib rows to the base of the thumb but just work the sl.st. of the join then proceed:
turn, ch7, skip 5. 26(30) hdc in lowest loop of previous row as before,join to 2nd on ch7
ch2, turn, 31(35) hdc in lowest loop of previous row (including the 5chain), join - you should now have a thumb hole

work a few more rows of hdc rib to the base of the fingers, ending with a right side row and finish off unless you want a bobble row in which case:


at the end of the final row do sl.st, turn as normal then: ch1, then through the usual part of the hdc (rather than the lower loop as rib) sl.st, bobble, (3sl.st, bobble) to last 2 then sl.st to end.
finish off.


bobble:
yarn over
insert hook through next hdc
yarn over, pull through (3 on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 (2 on hook)
insert hook in same space, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2, (3 on hook)
repeat last line till 6 on hook then yarn over and pull through all 6

thumb:
rejoin yarn at the first of the missed 5sc and pick up 14hdc around the hole
work 3 or 4 rows of the hdc rib and finish off.

If you're bothered about the join showing slightly on the top then the thumb hole should probably be worked at the end of the round rather than the start for the left glove.  So the ch7, skip is worked at the 26(30)th stitch.

pattern in progress - part deux

I tested out a few different so called crochet rib patterns and rather liked this hdc one.

None of them have much give in them like rib should so it's a purely decorative thing.

So I made a strip wide enough to wrap round my wrist....then discovered that the rib looks much better the other way around and bunches up rather sweetly.  Of course round the other way, it was too small for my (bony as they are) wrists and so to model my latest creation, I had to enlist the help of my daughter...who couldn't stop cackling at the idea of being a hand model since they had just watched Zoolander.

I think this really has potential.  Going to have to work on getting a neat side join (the nature of the stitch means it can't be worked in the round) and a thumb will be forthcoming and maybe a matching hat :)

***JANUARY SALE***

Yes!!!  I think I've worked out how to put a promotion on my Ravelry shop :)

It works like this:

Buy 2 or more patterns and a 20% discount will be applied to the total....yes...a 20% DISCOUNT.  (Works out almost buy one get one half price...almost) Huzzah.  I hope it works anyway.  Its to run for the whole of January so enjoy while you can.

Introducing....Pig and Monkey (woo woo)

As I was rustling up mini monkey...I was unable to get the song from the youtube video out of my head:

So I made a pig too

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pig-and-monkey

I might have to photograph them all again since I'm not very happy with the images but the patterns turned out really nice and simple.  Pattern available at Ravelry as usual, here's a sample page:

pattern in progress...

I was getting a weeny bit bored of single chain and its myriad variations, so thought it was time to learn something new...something....bobbly!

You could do a lot worse than watch a few of this chaps videos http://www.youtube.com/user/mikeyssmail.  I wanted a rib for the cuff and some bobbles for the main body of my glove and learnt both from his videos.  Huzzah.

Anyway...the first result was....semi-successful

Pros:
I love the bobbles and it works up fairly quickly
The bobble trim (same pattern but with slip stitch between bobbles instead of hdc) looks great

Cons:
What a miserable coloured yarn - nice to work but dismal (and to think I bought it to make a tank top with!)
Don't like the cuff...it's just too...chunky
Don't like the linear nature of the bobbles (not that they are very linear in this sample since I kept getting muddled)
Think perhaps bobbles on the palm would be really annoying.

I think I have something to work with though :)

on the 7th,8th and 9th day of christmas....

I crocheted something I made up as I went along so a pattern is a little bit tricky....

For starters...check out the work of Camilla Engman.  She has a pattern printed in The debbie Stoller Happy Hooker book...which I have to say thoroughly confused me till I noticed the (admittedly it was in bold type) line that says....stitches worked in back loop only.  Duh.  Lesson learnt - Read the instructions.

So, to start with sl.st is used and work in back loop only!!!!  there..I added exclamation marks to make it stand out more for idiots like myself.   Also,  I found doing 2 sl.st in one hole for increases a bit messy..could just be me but I found increases more attractive if I did a sl.st then a ch.  So in this case 'inc' means 'sl.st, ch1' righty ho.  To decrease (dec) I put the hook through one sl.st, then the next, yarn round and pull through all three loops on the hook.  Word of warning....this method of working is really, really, really slow...

Head
ch3 and join with sl.st to first to make a ring
inc (sl.st, ch1) in each ch (6st)
6sl.st (6st)
inc 6 times (12st)
12sl.st
12sl.st
(sl.st, inc) 6 times (18st)
18sl.st
(2sl.st, inc) 6 times (24st)
24sl.st
(3sl.st, inc) 6 times (30st)
(4sl.st, inc) 6 times (36st)
change colour....36sl.st
36sl.st for 4 rows
(4sl.st, dec) 6 times (30 st)
(3sl.st, dec) 6 times (24st)
(2sl.st, dec) 6 times (18st) fix eyes in and stuff
(sl.st, dec) 6 times (12st)
(dec) 6 times (6st)
pull up to close.

Body

ch3 and join with sl.st to first to make a ring
inc (sl.st, ch1) in each ch (6st)
inc 6 times (12st)
(sl.st, inc) 6 times (18st)
(2sl.st, inc) 6 times (24st)
(3sl.st, inc) 6 times (30st)
30sl.st for 10 rows
(3sl.st. dec) 6 times (24st)
24sl.st
(2sl.st, dec) 6 times (18st) might want to poke the (eye) leg joint through at this point as it is ridiculously fiddly later.
18sl.st
(sl.st., dec) 6 times (12st)
12sl.st
leave long enough end to sew to body.  Don't sew on just yet as need it open to fix legs in.

Legs

ch3 and join with sl.st to first to make a ring
inc (sl.st, ch1) in each ch (6st)
inc 6 times (12st)
(sl.st, inc) 6 times (18st)
18sl.st for 5 rows
change colour then 18sl.st.
(sl.st., dec) 6 times (12st)
12sl.st for 8 rows
Now the fiddly bit.  With the eye part of the safety eye poking out of the body where the leg is to pivot from, push it through the top part of the leg and fix the safety eye back inside the leg. Stuff.
Do a kind of running stitch through the top half of the sl.st and pull up to close

Arms

ch3 and join with sl.st to first to make a ring
inc (sl.st, ch1) in each ch (6st)
inc 6 times (12st)
12sl.st for 7 rows
(2sl.st., dec) 3 times (9st)
9sl.st for 4 rows
I'd lost the will to joint things by this point but you could if you wanted...or just pull up to close as the leg and stitch onto body.

and....I've made a really fugly little er...woodland creature

Well...it's a potentially interesting base for something else.  I may make him some ears and a little jacket or something.

The 'fluffing' incidentally is done with what my mum calls a teasel brush, think its something to do with felting. You attack the piece with this evil wiry brush thing (bit like one that's used to detangle dog fur!) and it pulls the fibres up and out.  It only works with proper wool, acrylic fibres just break off.

I honestly cannot recommend working in slip stitch...maybe just for sculpted faces or something but it's sooooo slow to produce anything.  Next time, it's back to good old single chain.

day 2....(cos december came about quicker than I expected ?!)

Day 1 of the advent calendar then had to be a squinkie.  Not terribly exciting but marginally better than a chocolate (though that's a matter of opinion).

I think I may be being a little over ambitious for a 'quickie' project but I want to make a mini jointed creation.

A bit of research and looks like using the plastic push fit eyes is the way to go for tiddy little joints.

Also, using a steel hook and embroidery floss seems to be the way to get tiny crochet but a) I have no idea what a steel hook is and the smallest hook I have is a 2.50mm and b) I really don't have that sort of patience (or eyesight) so....

Tiddy toy made with 2.5mm hook and some 3ply yarn

here's my sketch:

Yep, a kind of demented bunny type thing.

leg - make 2
6sc in loop
sc, inc 3 times, 2sc
3sc, inc 3 times, 3sc
5sc, inc 2 times, 5sc
14sc for 2 rows
5sc, dec 2 times, 5sc
3sc, dec 3 times, 3sc
9sc for 3 rows and stuff
leave long end

Body
foundation chain of 5
5sc, ch1, 5sc (bottom half of fsc) ch1
inc, 3sc, inc, sc, inc, 3sc, inc, sc
16sc for 5 rows
dec, 6sc, dec, 6sc
14sc for 3 rows
dec, 5sc, dec, 5sc
12sc - don't cut end yet...still got ears to do

Assembly
poke eye through top of inside leg joint from inside to outside and sew top of leg closed
hold eye washer inside body where leg to fix and push through - (bit fiddly this bit!)

Ears
2sc, then sc through next and sc opposite across the middle, 2sc...ignore remaining 6sc for now

not sure if this diagram could possibly help or not...

working on just the 5sc:...inc, 2sc, inc, sc
7sc for 4 rows
cut yarn and use a needle to pull up to finish.
Start again for other ear....join at outer edge,2sc to middle and go through the opposite sc, 2sc.
inc, 2sc, inc, sc
7sc for 4 rows
cut yarn and use a needle to pull up to finish.

ta-da!

Final thoughts...
I used 5mm pull through eyes - the ones with little wire loops rather than washers.  They aren't so bulky but are very different to fix and....I got mine in wonky.  Also - not small child friendly but then neither is a 3inch toy.

Do check that your legs are the right way round before fixing them...there isn't a lot of shape to the feet but it does sort of notice when one is on back to front...*sigh*

All in all, I'm quite excited at the possibilities of eye leg joints.  No point on toys with big floppy legs but for little things like this it works a treat.

And it fit in the advent box - yay!

Zombie invasion!!!!

I finally got zombie monkey written up!! Yay! (Took a little longer than anticipated as I've been getting a teensy bit engrossed in Guild Wars 2...)

Zombie monkey is sporting the latest in detachable brain accessory, along with the obligatory zombie acoutrement....the falling eyeball.

There's nothing particularly tricky in the pattern and I've discovered the joys of making charts in Adobe illustrator so most of the parts have a nice chart to follow and written instructions.  Huzzah!

Link to the pattern on Ravelry

"Derek, you take that brain back right now!"